THE NEW INN, GREAT LIMBER - MODERN BRITISH - PUB WITH ROOMS - ££
"Eye-catching cooking in a handsome village hostelry"

OVERALL RATING: GOOD
Uniqueness: Good
Deliciousness: Good
Warmth: Good
Strength of recommendation: Very Good

'An uplifting asset in a picturesque village, the Grade II-listed pub with rooms is cherished but deserves wider renown. Great Limber's finest can often be found limbering up at the bar with a pint - perhaps guest ale Sleck Dust (literally 'quench the thirst' to non-cognoscenti). The handsomely proportioned property also comprises a patio and beer garden, as well as a separate restaurant adjacent to the bar - a restful spot with bare floorboards, pastel walls, and a bookcase full of political biographies.

Chef-patron Alex Knowles learned his craft at some starry establishments, including Moor Hall and nearby Winteringham Fields, so although his menu incorporates the pubby standards (burgers, steaks et al), it's worth exploring the more adventurous creations. As soon as the quietly efficient waiter brings the first course - perhaps a flavourful ham-hock terrine, balanced by a perfectly rendered, crispy poached egg in a smooth pea velouté - you know you're in safe hands.

Given its proximity to Grimsby, the pub's 'catch of the day' is always worth considering, and our main course didn't disappoint: a thick steak of marvellously fresh cod, cooked to flaky, succulent precision and served with pommes maxim (crisp slices of spud), creamed leeks and a grassy, zesty dill velouté. Simple steamed green vegetables rather than oily braised hispi cabbage might have been a better side dish, but this was eye-catching cooking.

Desserts also hit the high notes - witness a highly impressive assembly of white chocolate mousse surrounding a tangy sea buckthorn curd, plus roasted buckwheat crumble and a honey tuile - a textural tour de force. It may sound flashy, but there's a refreshing lack of pretension here, while the catch-all wine list is fairly priced and to the point.